🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.